Boracay, Here I Come

     Rise and shine.  4:00 a.m., shower, dress, and out the door at 5.  It was about a 30 minute drive from Green Hills to the domestic airport.  The security was tight.  You had to get screened before receiving your boarding pass.  There was a short line outside the airport.  Your bags were scanned prior to entering the airport.  Then, another screening and an exit fee.  *Keep this in mind when Boracay and Manilla.  They only take cash and charge you as you leave the country.  I also had to hand over my umbrella, later receiving it in Calibo.

     The flight was brief, about an hour until I arrived in Calibo.  The airport was small and untidy.  The perfect setting for a tropical island.  Next, I jumped on a bus and took a long, winding road through the countryside.  It was perfect.  The left side had the best views (I lucked out).  I saw rice paties, huts on stilts, and many natives.  It really made the 1 1/2 hour bus ride bearable. 

 

   






      Upon arriving at the port, you will board a small cataclan.  Beware of the porters.  They will take your bag from you and expect more than a few dollars in exchange.  They tried to do this at the airport and the port.  I tried to manage by myself, which was very difficult.  I had to manuever down a narrow ramp, with a bulky suit case (anything to save a few bucks).  Their ship hands also throw your luggage on top of the boat.  This made me a nervous wreck, but it managed to stay on.

     After a 20 minute boat ride and 8 minute transfer (by golf cart) to the hotel and dragging my luggage through sand for about 10 minutes, I had finally arrived.

     I was greeted with a shell necklace and fruit drink.  Then off to a lunch on the beach.  The rest of the day was spent drinking mojitos in the afternoon sun.  The beach was a fine white sand, that never gets hot!! 
     As I watched the sun set in the bay, I thought....This is paradise.

View from our balcony

Villa Escudero

     Nothing is more refreshing than having lunch with your feet in the water.
     I awoke this morning to breakfast on the table.  The previous evening, we had told the maid to have breakfast ready at 7:30.  I will admit, that I am getting a little used to being waited on hand and foot.  I even gave the maid my laundry to do.  Although I later found out that she washes it by hand.  I did not feel good after knowing that.  It is a little awkward.  I had to call the maid for orange juice and to make a bagel.  I felt helpless.  I am already becoming very dependent on Dina.  Maids and drivers are very cheap in the Philappeans.  Some live away from their families and visit only while on holiday.  Depending on the family, many "helpers" will stay with the same family for years, if they are treated right.  Some families may even pay for the maids children to go to private school.  It has its perks and downsides, like any job.
     Jake (the driver), arrived promptly at 8:00 and we were off to an old estate.  The drive was interesting.  Much like India, there are not any lanes on the road and honking your horn is the signal to move over.  The traffic is erratic and the there are few traffic lights when you reach the countryside.  The side of the road had many interesting sights.  People were selling cocks (cock fighting is big here), coconuts, mangos, melons, and bananas.  There were historic, mansions and tin shacks built right on top of one another.  Stray dogs roaming the streets and motor cars everywhere.  I recommend traveling through the countryside to really get a feel of the Philappeans.

Local, public transportation bus

Coconuts

After a lengthy two hour drive, we arrived at the Villa Escudero.  A self-contained working coconut plantation, It was founded in the 1880s by Don Placido Escudero and his wife Dona Claudia Marasigan. Originally planted to sugarcane, the crop was converted to coconut by their son Don Arsenio Escudero in the early 1900s. A pioneering agro-industrialist, he built the country's first working hydroelectric plant to supply his dessicated coconut factory and Villa Escudero, where he and his wife Dona Rosario Adap built in 1929.  Their children opened the estate to the public in 1981.

     We immediatly paid, had an interesting sugar drink and headed off to the museum.  The AERA Memorial Museum, founded by spouses Arsenio and Rosario Escudero, houses one of the largest collections in the country, unmatched in its eclectic diversity. Housed in a replica of a long-gone church in Intramuros with painted trompe-l'oeil ceilings, the present building opened for viewing in 1987.  The artifacts in the museum were collected from their travels throughout the world. 

     The museum was set inside a pink church and held many interesting artifacts.  There were statues of Jesus that dated back to the Villa Escudero.  After the religioius statues, there was a section with animals from the Philappeans.  It was quite interesting.  Nothing was labeled and the displays were not kept up nicely.  In fact, the one scene of the monkeys getting attacked by a snake, just might give me nightmares.  The highlight for me, was the shrunken head.  I was so fascinated, that I had to take a photograph, even though the sign strictly prohibited this.

AERA Memorial Museum

Creepy!

     After the museum, we strolled over to the carabao pick up location.  To my amusement, we had an albino bull called, sexy.  The ride was slow and pleasant.  I was entertained by a man playing a guitar and a woman singing.  They sang songs I knew, including Feliz Navidad.

     The carabao dropped us off in front of the resort area.  We followed the path towards Labasin falls.  At the bottom were tables and benches placed ankle deep in the water!  I was very excited and took off my sandals to feel the refreshing water run across my feet.  It was just right!  The weather is humid and in the high 80's.  It was just what I needed.  Note of caution: if you go, be mindful of the ground.  It is covered in algae and very slippery!

          





 
      Lunch was a buffet that included: grilled tilapia, stewed beef, lo mein, roasted pork, grilled chicken, chicken soup, green bean salad, and cucumbers.  You had to walk up to the buffet in the water and the sound of the running water was very peaceful as you ate. 
     Throughout lunch, I kept looking at a cave, behind the waterfall.  The temptation to climb in was building and after a beer, I decided...why not!  I climbed very carefully, and hoisted myself into the cave, clothes and all.  I was so excited.  Everyone about was staring; although I could not tell if it was in shock or amazement.  The exit was just as exciting.  I slid on my bottom down the waterfall.

     The resort also had a swimming pool and wooden raft. The line for the raft was extremely long and there was an unlimited time for the raft, so I opted out.
     The ride home was slow and tedious, du eto traffic.  I enjoyed the scenery though.  I was able to appreciate everything that I have, things that I take for granted.  I was reminded by the scenery before me, that I have a pretty good life.

bamboo rafts in the distance

I had to have a little fun.

A History Lesson

     Last night Santa Clause came.  When I awoke, there was a present beside my bed.  Inside the nicely packaged bag was a jewlry box made of coconut.  It was gorgeous.
     Today was filled with history and bargaining.  It began with another great breakfast at a restaraunt called, Bizu.  I had a fantastic, classic Philappeano breakfast.  It included garlic rice, scrambled eggs, and longaniza (which is a classic sausage).  I washed it all down with a hot English Breakfast tea.  It was the start to a great day.

     After a quick Skype session home, I jumped into the SUV and I was on my way to a great lesson in history.
     Our day was spent at Fort Santiago.  Situated at the mouth of the Pasig River, which runs into Manila Bay it is the ideal place to put fortifications to ensure the safety of the area and to defend against the pirates and marauders which frequented the area.

      We decided to take a self guided tour and walk through the inside of the fort.  I crossed a moat full of water lillies, that were soon to bloom.    The center of the fort is an open, bare space.  We decided to start at the left and walk counter clockwise around the inside of the fort.  Parts of the fort need some restoration, but overall, it was in great condition.

 
     Originally the site of Rajah Sulayman’s settlement prior to Spanish occupation and rule. The Spanish defeated the Muslim-Filipino leader, Rajah Sulayman in the 1500’s. He was the last ruler, of the now Metro Manila area, before the Spanish took control.

     Once the Spanish had defeated Rajah Sulayman they rebuilt his settlement into a fort, referred to as Fort Santiago. In 1590 the Spanish rebuilt the wooden structures of the original settlement and re-constructed the fort with stone, making Fort Santiago a highly intimidating and imposing structure.

     Fort Santiago was used by the Spanish as it’s base of power, which it wielded unforgivingly. It housed the Military, Spanish officials and dignitaries and also served as a formidable prison with infamous dungeons where torture was not uncommon. The prison in Fort Santiago also held until his execution, Fort Santiago’s most famous prisoner.

Built in 1593, the structure was a barracks building for Spanish soldiers.
During the American period, army officers and their families live here. 
The buildings were eventually destroyed during World War II.

     Among the other sites that were interesting, was a cross that marked the burial site of approximately 600 Filipinos and Americans who were victims of atrocities during the last days of February 1945.  The appearance of their bodies suggested starvation and possible suffocation.  They were found inside a nearby dungeon, which had inner doors made of massive iron bars.  The outer doors were made of iron plated on wood. 
      From atop the fort, you are able to look down into some of the prisoner cells.  The other, torture chambers, are under the ground.  This is where the American and Pilippeano soldiers were tortured by the Japanese. 
     Although, it started to get quite hot, I was able to walk along the upper part of the wall.  It was serene and I was able to see the advantage to building this walled fort in its present location.  I was also able to view the city from across the water.  The present day Manilla is quite different from the past.



    


     As we stepped onto the main grounds, we followed the bronze footsteps that were inlaid into the ground.  This was the final footsteps Rizal took in his walk of death, from the prison cell leading to his execution by firing squad in 1896.  Also within the compound, is the Rizal shrine in memory of the great national hero of the Philippines. 




     After we left Fort Santiago, We hopped onto a horse and carriage, for a lesson in history.  I recommend this form of transportation to tour the remaining parts of the walled city.  It was refreshing to feel a light breeze and to travel back into history with the mode of transportation appropriate to the time. 

     The walled city is also referred to as, Intramuros, which means "within the walls". Intramuros served as the colonial outpost in Asia for the Spanish for 400 years. Intramous was created by a Spanish conquistador known as Miguel Lopez de Legapsi in the year 1571. The streets of this new city was placed according to urbanization rules during 1573. This lead to the creation of parallel and straight streets; Ultimately producing city blocks of identical sizes. Then a moat along with a stone wall was constructed in order to guard the city and its dwellers from any unwanted intruders.

  

Plaza San Luis

 Inside the city named after one of the old barrios of old Intramuros, is a complex currently composed of five houses - Casa Manila, Casa Urdaneta, Casa Blanca, Los Hidalgos and El Hogar Filipino. There are specialty shops, a hotel, and a museum at Casa Manila.                                                                               

Casa Manila

      Next, we crossed the street to visit the the historic San Agustin Church.  The first San Agustin Church was the first religious structure constructed by the Spaniards on the island of Luzon. The original church was contructed of bamboo and nipa.  The final construction was completed in 1571, but destroyed by fire in December, 1574 during the attempted invasion of Manila by the forces of Limahong. A second church was then constructed, but destroyed in February 1583, from a fire that started from a candle.

San Agustin Church

     San Agustin is the oldest church still standing in the Philippines; no other surviving building in the Philippines has been claimed to pre-date San Agustin Church.  As you walk through the corriders of the church, you cannot help but to feel at peace.  It is quite and serene.  The corriders are open and you can look down onto the courtyard. 

                        We were free to walk around the church and look at the artifacts that are located in various wings of the building.    We even wandered up into the organ room.  It is located up a few stairs in the back of the church.  The organ was overpowering.  It was very big, and I could not resist temptation.  Of course, I had to sit and pose for a pic.  It was hard to be quite, when the bench squeeked and echoed throughout the silent church!

The size of the music sheets display how large the 18th century pipe organ was.  The choir loft also has hand-carved 17th Century seats made from molave hardwood that match perfectly with the 18th Century pipe organ.

     The majestic church has stood for more than three centuries in the walled-city of Intramuros in Manila. It has survived two earthquakes in 1863 and 1889 and the ravages of Japanese occupation. Today, San Agustin Church is a fully functioning Roman Catholic Church under the auspices of the Order of St. Augustine, and is also the home to an important Catholic icon – the image of Our Lady of Consolation. 

     It was clear when I stood in the cathedral, how magnificent this building is.  Its ceiling is very colorful and breathtaking.  It is nice to enjoy the view from the pews in the church.  The trompe l’oeil ceiling painting was done in 1875 by Italian artists Cesare Alberoni and Giovanni Dibella. 

The "kadangyan" or rich man of the cordillera is determined not only by how much land and animals he owns but more so by the kind and quantity of is jars.

     It was a wonderful, unexpected day of tourism.  Prior to coming here, I did not know much about the history of Manila.  This tour and experience created a compassion to research the history further.