Temple stay is a cultural program that gives you the chance to experience the 1,700 year old tradition of Korean Buddhism. It is the one thing that I have wanted to experience since my arrival in South Korea. I have finally had the opportunity to experience this wonderful religion and people that follow it. I hope you enjoy this experience as well, through my writing and pictures.
Upon arrival at Magoksa, my group was escorted over a bridge that was covered in brilliant lanterns. The path came to an end in front of a long, narrow Korean home. I was handed traditional Buddhist monk clothing (not the most flattering ensemble, although quite comfortable) and sent to the formal hall. Once there, I was given an explanation of temple life and detailed instructions on the proper way to bow. We had to demonstrate the bow sequence, to ensure the proper technique was achieved.
After the introduction, we were led on a private tour through Magoksa. It was founded by Monk Jajangyulsa in 640 and is secluded in the mountains of the Chung Cheong Province. The mountain and rivers that surround the temple creates a yin-yang shape. Perhaps because of such a shape, this temple was never damaged by any major wars during the Joseon Period (1392-1910). The temples and surrounding area was breathtaking. The cherry blossoms and sansuyu were in full bloom.
The tour finished at a stepping stone bridge. There, I was handed a blindfold and given a partner to guide me across the stones. This was not an easy task for multilple reasons. First, I went on this trip alone, and was partnered with a stranger. Second, the water on the right side of the stones, was quite deep (I only had one pair of sneakers). The task was for you to put down your guard and allow another to guide you along the right path. I was very nervous. The gaps between the stones were quite a step, but my guide succeeded and the roles were reversed. If you were wondering, someone did go into the water. The women was being led by her daughter.
After the trust walk, I made a Buddhist Prayer Bead bracelet and a lotus lantern. The bracelet was easy as pie, but the lotus lantern was another feat. The paper wouldn't stick to the cup, the dye turned my fingers pink and green, and I managed to glue the leaves on the wrong way. It was amusing to think that this was supposed to be relaxing. Dinner followed, consisting of rice, sprouts, and seaweed soup.
The Bell Ringing ceremony was next. It was mezmorizing to see the monk play the enormous drum and keep a wonderful rythm. It reminded me a little of the inuit people from Alaska and the beat that they had kept with their instruments. Even though they are thousands of miles away, they are still closely linked. I did get to ring the bell. It took two people, one on each side of the log. It was pulled back 6 times and then released to ring the bell. It was quite heavy and very LOUD.
The evening had come and we walked to the temple to observe the head monk pray to Buddha. He sang the chant that we had learned and did his three bow homage to Buddha. We were able to join if we wanted, but my chanting wasn't quite up to par, so I lip sang. After the ceremony, we went out to the monument. According to the monk, after Buddah was cremated, two marbles were found in the ashes. The marbles are buried under this monument. Therefore, if you make a wish and bow on each side, speaking a set verse, your wish will come true (you do this two times around). Well, to ensure our wishes came true, we bowed, said the verse (in Korean), and walked around the monument for ten minutes. I will not tell you the wish, for it may not come true. Once completed, we had an evening of tea and rice cakes with the monk. He talked to us about temple life and led a brief question period. Then, it was off to bed, yes, at 8:00 in the evening.
The wake up call was at 3:00 A.M. The bell was ringing, the air was crisp, and mountains had mist rolling off of them. It was everything that I imagined and more. We walked in silence to the temple and prayed to Buddha. The ceremony involved chanting and lots of kneeling. There were at least 6 monks in the room, creating a peaceful atmosphere. Following the ceremony, we were led back to our quarters to part take in the 108 prostrations.
The 108 Prostrations- by physically lowering our bodies, humbling our selfish egos before the universe, we realize that we are not separate from this world. Performing 108 prostrations is yet another path towards the realization of the True, Self, and a very effective form of meditation. In short, I had to bow 108 times, while meditation music played, and a deep voice (pre-recorded, but very dramatic) stated 108 things that I should repent and vow to take action. It was very relaxing, peaceful, and humbling. The task of bowing seems daunting, but it felt like I had only bowed 20 times!
Seon Meditation followed. We were led by another monk with directions on how to cross our legs. We had to fold our mat over, to aide in our comfort. Our foot needed to be placed by our thigh, difficult for some (yoga has paid off). The monk gave us a topic to meditate on: what we were in our previous life. We had thirty minutes. I was supposed to look a couple meters ahead, but was distracted, so I closed my eyes. After a few minutes, I decided I was bird (they get to travel everywhere). Then, I think I dozed off, remember, I was up since 3. At least I wasn't snoring like the person behind me. There was not any music playing and I began to think when it would end. All of a sudden, the monk brouht everyone back and said, "I know some of you were thinking, when would this end." Oops, he caught me!
Breakfast was the highlight of the temple stay. We were to be absolutely silent. We were given a set of four bowls, chopsticks, and a washing rag. We sat on our mats and laid our bowls on the floor. The monk gave strict instructions on the proceedure that we were take. First, we had water poured into biggest bowl. The water is swished around and poured into the next sized bowl and so forth. This is to clean your bowls, before you place the food in it. Next, the rice is passed out. I only took a little, because every kernel of rice should not be left uneaten. The sides of beans and sprouts, I chose to leave aside. Although the monks eat a strictly vegetarian diet, it is an acquired taste. I was afraid that I would not like it, and have to eat it.
After you finish your meal, you pour rice water into the largest bowl. Next, you take a pickled raddish
and move it around the large bowl and rice water. The purpose of this is to clean your bowl. Then you take the raddish and wash the other sized bowls. Afterwards, you eat the raddish and drink the rice water. I guess this is the environmentally friendly way to wash your dishes. The Monastic formal meal is for one to realize that eating is also part of our practice, we feel gratitude for the food that is served, and receive it keeping in mind that it is only medicine to support our bodies in order to attain enlightenment.
The next part of the morning was amazing! I was led on a meditation hike with the monk. The mountain side was spotted with colorful bushes of spring flowers. It was very quite and once along the way, I stacked a few rocks. I will admit, you do an aweful lot of thinking at a temple stay. It is very refreshing to think about life and forget my busy city life for a bit. It was the most relaxed that I have been in quite a while. After the meditation hike, We had free time for two hours. It was nice to walk around the temple and explore on my own.
The stay concluded with the last words from the monk. He thanked us for coming and answered many questions that were asked. I learned that he had been a monk for 37 years and started when he was quite young. The Korean monks clothing is different from other areas, due to the climate (they used to be white, but dyed them black). Also, people now get the "calling" later in life and decide to become a monk at around 30 to 40 years old.
