Terra Cotta Warriors

Old City Wall

   
      I was awoken this morning by loud banging outside of my hotel window.  I was startled, for a moment I had forgotten where I was.  It took a moment, but then I realized that I was still in X'ian for lunar new year.  Over breakfast, western style cuisine, I realized that I was the sole person in the hotel restaraunt.  I had realized that I did not bring a gift to the family and could not buy one, as most stores were closed due to the holiday.  I knew that I would not see the kind family that I had shared this holiday with, so I wrote a letter of thanks to them and gave it to the tour guide. 
     My day began at the old city wall and bell tower.  To my amazement and enjoyment, it was deserted.  There was a thick haze that still clung to the wall from the fireworks.  Red and gold lanterns would pop through, reminding of the great celebration that was going on in many chinese homes.  I walked along the wall and thought of how soldiers stood in my place protecting the emporer that lay within.  I looked at the ancient battle equipment, and imagined a scene from Lord of the Rings.  

Weapons

Old City Wall

     When I entered the tower, there was a small group of muscians playing music on traditional instruments and wearing traditional garments.  On the bell tower, I stood in the city center.  I viewed north, east, south, and west, all parts that connect to the gates of the city wall.  I could see the drum tower and city wall in the distance.  The tower was built in 1384 by Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang as a way to dominate the surrounding countryside and provide early warning of attack by rival rulers.

Drum Tower

     According to legend, an official named Deng tried unsuccessfully for over a year to cast the bell. On the eve of the final casting, his daughter, fearing that further delays and loss of working time would bring blame on her father, decided to sacrifice her life in order to move the gods to bring about a perfect casting, and threw herself into the molten bronze. Her panic-stricken father could only recover a single embroidered slipper from the flames. The casting was a success and the emperor, moved by the young girl's spirit of sacrifice, named her the "Goddess of the Golden Furnace" and built a temple in her honor near the foundry. By the ordinary people she was remembered as the "Goddess Who Cast the Bell."

      After the bell was installed, the chimes could be heard clearly and resonantly all across the city. But on stormy evenings, the bell would emit a desolate moaning sound similar to the word xie, which means "shoe" in Chinese. Recalling the old legend, mothers would comfort their children with: "Go to sleep! The Bell Tower is tolling. The Goddess Who Cast the Bell wants her embroidered slipper back."

     My next stop was lunch.  I had so much food for just myself and it was so delicious.  I had lunch at a restaraunt in the Terra Cotta Museum.  Over lunch, I discovered that my tour guides mother, wishes that he will marry a foreigner.  I asked why and he told me two reasons.  The first, was that she watches many foreigners on tv and she thinks that they are beautiful (which she kept telling me).  Second, was that she wants more than one grandchild.  This bit of information really was a reality check.  I asked Michael how the restriction worked.  He told me the following:

          "If a family has one child and that child marries another single child, then they are able to have two children; however, if a child has a sibling and marries, then they are to only have one child.  Families look forward to having a child, whether it be a boy or a girl.  Many, wish for a girl, as he does."

     I learned a lot  from our conversation and  appreciate the freedom that I have.

     Afterwards, I visisted Pit #1.  The terra cotta warriors are enclosed in a large dome and it's temperature is regulated inside.  The vast amount of warriors is amazing, each with a unique face (no one is the same).  You are able to tell the rank of the soldiers by looking at the type of shoes that they wear.  I also learned that some of the warriors hair is in a bun to one side.  These were the fighters.  They placed their hair to one side, so that it would not get in the way when they were using their weapons.  There is not any color left in the warriors, but it is easy to imagine how they looked when they were created.  They army stands guard to protect the emporer in his after-life.

     The horses are the most amazing pieces.  When you look closely, you are unable to see the seam where the two casts were put together.  It is remarkable the skill work that the artisans put into these pieces.  Pits 2 & 3 were not as exciting as the first, but I traveled all this way, so I took a look anyway.  The emporers tomb has not yet been excavated, but they believe that they know the location of it.  If the tomb is revealed, I will travel back to see it.  I will place the terra cotta warriors on my top 20 "must see."