Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, Temple of Heaven, and Summer Palace

     The chinese people believed that nine was a sacred number.  Nine is a sacred number; three multiplied by itself to give eternity, completion and fulfilment.  In China, number 9 is the number of celestial power, the nine storeyed pagoda is a symbol of heaven.It was based on the nine levels of the heavenly kingdom; therefore it is represented in many of their ancient buildings.  I saw this today, while viewing the Temple of Heaven.  The temple has three sets of nine stairs leading the top. 

     The Temple of Heaven was constructed between 1406 and 1420 during the reign of Ming Emperor YongLe (1403-1424), who also oversaw the creation of the Forbidden City during the same period.
In imperial China, the emperor was regarded as the Son of Heaven, the intermediary between Earth and Heaven. To be seen to be showing respect to the source of his authority, in the form of sacrifices to heaven, was extremely important. The Temple of Heaven was built for these ceremonies.
     The most important ceremony of the year took place on the winter solstice, when the emperor prayed for good harvests. After three days of fasting, the emperor and his entourage, wearing splendid robes, would make their way to the park on the day before the solstice. It was forbidden for the commoners to catch a glimpse of the great annual procession; they had to bolt their windows and remain in silence indoors throughout the event.
     Upon arrival at Tian Tan, the emperor meditated in the Imperial Vault, ritually conversing with the gods on the details of government. He then spent the night in the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. The next day, the winter solstice, he performed animal sacrifices before the Throne of Heaven at the Round Altar. The rituals were planned to the smallest detail according to numerological theories. The ceremony had to be perfectly completed, for the smallest of mistakes would constitute a bad omen for the whole nation in the coming year.
     Speaking of bad omens, the Hall of Prayer was destroyed by a lightning strike in 1889. The official explanation for this appalling event was that is was divine punishment meted out on a caterpillar that was about to crawl onto the golden ball of the hall's roof. For allowing this to happen, 32 court dignitaries were executed. The hall was then faithfully rebuilt according to the original Ming design.
The temple complex remained forbidden to all but the emperor and his retinue until the gates were thrown open to the people on the first Chinese National Day of the Republic in October 1912. On December 23, 1914, General Yuan Shikai performed the ancient ceremonies himself, as part of his attempt to be proclaimed emperor. He died before the end of the year.
That was the last time Tian Tan was used for ritual ceremonies.
      The Temple of Heaven is made entirely out of wood, without using one single nail.  I thought that this was amazing!  It has four inner pillars, representing the four seasons, 12 middle pilllars, symbolizing the 12 months, and 12 outer pillars, representing the 12 Chinese watches of the day.

Temple of Heaven

After the Temple of Heaven, I went to Tiananmen Square.  It was so large and with the past historical events held in this area, I understood why this Square has become so popular.  To enter the Square, your bags need to be checked with security and there are a few soldiers that stand about. 

      The granite Monument to the People's Heroes is just at the center of the Tiananmen Square. Built in 1952, it is the largest monument in China's history. ' The People's Heroes are Immortal' written by Chairman Mao is engraved on the monument. Eight unusually large relief sculptures show to the people the development of Chinese modern history. Two rows of white marble railings enclose the monument, simple

and beautiful.

A 15-by-20-foot oil painting of Chairman Mao Zedong hangs on Tiananmen Gate, which separates the square from the Forbidden City (it is hanging in the background). 

Monument to the People's Hero's

Tiananmen Square

     My next destination was the Forbidden City.  This city was huge.  I felt as if I was going from one palace to another.  The entrance is surrounded by large walls and three gates.     You have to cross a moat that surrounds the entire palace.  I felt as if I was crossing over into an ancient time.  The crowds were thick, but was reminded that this was nothing, considereing this was the off season.It was built in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and the construction of this group of buildings took fourteen years from 1406 to 1420. In the Ming Dynasty and the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), it was the imperial palace where twenty-four emperors ascended the throne and exercised their strong power to the nation.

      The incomparable palace occupies an area of 720,000 square meters (177.9 acres) and has approximately 8,700 rooms.  There are four gates in each side, with Meridian Gate (Wu Men) as the main entrance. The gates were built to allow people of certain ranks to come in.  The entrance in the middle was reserved for the emperor; however, there were some exceptions to this rule. The empress had the right to enter through it only on her wedding day and the top three students who succeeded in the Final Imperial Examination were entitled to leave the palace via this central entrance. The side entrance on the east was for the ministers and the side entrance on the west for the royal family members. The other two flanking entrances were opened on grand ceremony occasions, permitting officials to pass.

Rub this door and you will receive good fortune and happiness

  

Behind the Hall of Earthly Tranquility is the Imperial Garden where the imperial family members recreated themselves. It was built up in 1420 and remains unchanged in its original layout. The garden with an area of about 1.2 hectares (2.97 acres) has more than twenty structures distributed symmetrically.

 The steep rockery with a chic pavilion on in the north was where the emperor and empress climbed up to view the distance on the lunar September 9th. Even the paths convey a distinct flavor. They are paved with pebbles with different colors, forming a variety of designs portraying people, flowers, scenery or stories.

    

     The last stop on my trip was the Summer Palace.  Although I visited the palace during the winter  winter, it was still very beautiful.  The temperature was great.  China is having an unusually warm winter.  Like the Forbidden Palace, the Summer Palace was very large.  The gardens surround a man made lake.  The dirt removed from the lake was used to build the hill where the palace sits.  There are stones that lay on the ground in decerative designs.  The walk through the gardens is long, but very fun.  There is so much to look at, that the time goes by quickly.

Marble Boat

The emporer walked under this corridor to enjoy the view. 
The corridor has more than 10,000 different paintings on the ceiling

Local people playing cards in the park

The Great Wall

    
     The Great Wall was an expierence to remember.  I climbed the wall alone.  There was not a tour guide nor an English speaker with me, making this expierence beautiful.  I climbed the steps in silence, stopping for a quick photo or to catch my breath.

     The stairs were steep and worn down from thousands of footsteps.  The hand rail was too short and the first part to tower two was crowded, but the crowed thinned out as I climbed and soon, it was just a few of us.

The base of The Great Wall

     Along the way, I was stared at.  The looks were not rude,  instead they were kind and intrigued by my western looks.  Since I am traveling in the off season and during a national holiday, I was the rare foreigner that was about.  I was asked by many Chinese to be in their photographs.  I felt exotic and beautiful, adding to the expierence.   I met wonderful individuals who each had a story.  I exchanged conversation (my broken spanish) with ladies from Spain, Brazil, and Ireland. 

     As the stairs loomed ahead, I continued to climb.  My layers were removed and I wished that I had not worn leggings underneath my pants.  At every tower, I would rest and take in the scenery.  I would wonder how the wall kept out monguls and seperated ancient kindoms.  I thought about how war has been around for so long. 

View from the base of the wall

    When I reached the peak, I cracked open a beer and toasted to myself.  I relaxed and placed myself between two stones.  I sat and took in the view.  I was proud of my accomplishment and was still in awe of this great man-made structure. 
    

    

Rickshaw

Take a Ride With Me

     I also rode a rickshaw today and explored the old city of Beining.  This was my second time, the first being in India.  I had a guide with me and she explained how much China has changed since 1997.  She is happy with the new changes. 
     Halfway on the tour, we got off the rickshaw and walked the old streets.  The streets were narrow and very similar to alley ways.  She explained that many people retire to this area, because it a reprieve from the busy city life.  Cars will not fit in the narrow streets, as a result, it is very quite. 

Narrow Streets of Old Beijing

     The homes look small from the outside, but when you enter through the door, you realize that it is comprised of a square courtyard with four rooms facing the north, south, east, and west.  The largest room, belongs to the head of the household.  The next largest in size belongs to the son.  The smallest room belonged to the servants.  I went into a local home.  It was small and worn.  The occupants along with others in the area, use a public bathroom, a reminder of how China still needs to grow. 

The House Doors Decorated for the Year of the Rabbit

Courtyard

The Son's House

The Veil of a Bride

     Later in the evening, I visited a tea house.  Who would have though how much work should go into making a cup of tea.  I learned so much!  From which type of tea pot to use to the all of the benefits from drinking tea.

Tea House Seminar

     P.S.  If you vistit The Great Wall, make sure you do not go with a big group.  I had a private tour and did not have any restrictions on time, something that made the expierence worthwhile.

Terra Cotta Warriors

Old City Wall

   
      I was awoken this morning by loud banging outside of my hotel window.  I was startled, for a moment I had forgotten where I was.  It took a moment, but then I realized that I was still in X'ian for lunar new year.  Over breakfast, western style cuisine, I realized that I was the sole person in the hotel restaraunt.  I had realized that I did not bring a gift to the family and could not buy one, as most stores were closed due to the holiday.  I knew that I would not see the kind family that I had shared this holiday with, so I wrote a letter of thanks to them and gave it to the tour guide. 
     My day began at the old city wall and bell tower.  To my amazement and enjoyment, it was deserted.  There was a thick haze that still clung to the wall from the fireworks.  Red and gold lanterns would pop through, reminding of the great celebration that was going on in many chinese homes.  I walked along the wall and thought of how soldiers stood in my place protecting the emporer that lay within.  I looked at the ancient battle equipment, and imagined a scene from Lord of the Rings.  

Weapons

Old City Wall

     When I entered the tower, there was a small group of muscians playing music on traditional instruments and wearing traditional garments.  On the bell tower, I stood in the city center.  I viewed north, east, south, and west, all parts that connect to the gates of the city wall.  I could see the drum tower and city wall in the distance.  The tower was built in 1384 by Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang as a way to dominate the surrounding countryside and provide early warning of attack by rival rulers.

Drum Tower

     According to legend, an official named Deng tried unsuccessfully for over a year to cast the bell. On the eve of the final casting, his daughter, fearing that further delays and loss of working time would bring blame on her father, decided to sacrifice her life in order to move the gods to bring about a perfect casting, and threw herself into the molten bronze. Her panic-stricken father could only recover a single embroidered slipper from the flames. The casting was a success and the emperor, moved by the young girl's spirit of sacrifice, named her the "Goddess of the Golden Furnace" and built a temple in her honor near the foundry. By the ordinary people she was remembered as the "Goddess Who Cast the Bell."

      After the bell was installed, the chimes could be heard clearly and resonantly all across the city. But on stormy evenings, the bell would emit a desolate moaning sound similar to the word xie, which means "shoe" in Chinese. Recalling the old legend, mothers would comfort their children with: "Go to sleep! The Bell Tower is tolling. The Goddess Who Cast the Bell wants her embroidered slipper back."

     My next stop was lunch.  I had so much food for just myself and it was so delicious.  I had lunch at a restaraunt in the Terra Cotta Museum.  Over lunch, I discovered that my tour guides mother, wishes that he will marry a foreigner.  I asked why and he told me two reasons.  The first, was that she watches many foreigners on tv and she thinks that they are beautiful (which she kept telling me).  Second, was that she wants more than one grandchild.  This bit of information really was a reality check.  I asked Michael how the restriction worked.  He told me the following:

          "If a family has one child and that child marries another single child, then they are able to have two children; however, if a child has a sibling and marries, then they are to only have one child.  Families look forward to having a child, whether it be a boy or a girl.  Many, wish for a girl, as he does."

     I learned a lot  from our conversation and  appreciate the freedom that I have.

     Afterwards, I visisted Pit #1.  The terra cotta warriors are enclosed in a large dome and it's temperature is regulated inside.  The vast amount of warriors is amazing, each with a unique face (no one is the same).  You are able to tell the rank of the soldiers by looking at the type of shoes that they wear.  I also learned that some of the warriors hair is in a bun to one side.  These were the fighters.  They placed their hair to one side, so that it would not get in the way when they were using their weapons.  There is not any color left in the warriors, but it is easy to imagine how they looked when they were created.  They army stands guard to protect the emporer in his after-life.

     The horses are the most amazing pieces.  When you look closely, you are unable to see the seam where the two casts were put together.  It is remarkable the skill work that the artisans put into these pieces.  Pits 2 & 3 were not as exciting as the first, but I traveled all this way, so I took a look anyway.  The emporers tomb has not yet been excavated, but they believe that they know the location of it.  If the tomb is revealed, I will travel back to see it.  I will place the terra cotta warriors on my top 20 "must see." 

Xian Nian Kuai Le

     Throughout my travels I have expierenced many cultures and traditions, but none compare to this evening.  Today I left South Korea, bound for X'ian or "she ahn," as it is pronounced.  This evening was Lunar New Year's Eve, the year of the rabbit.  I was very excited to witness the tradions and customs of this holiday, little did I know that I would expierence this first hand. 
     There were fireworks to welcome me and are still continuing as I write this.  The evening was filled with smoke and a thick haze accompanied it.  My tour guide, Michael (his English name came from Michael Jackson), was a bit young (23), but spoke perfect English.  He was excited to tell me that I was the lone tourist and would be taking the tour on my own.  I was shocked.  I had a private car and guide for tomorrow.  He also invited me to celebrate New Year with his family.  Now, I know as a female traveling alone that it would be very stupid to go with him...but how could I pass up a traditional chinese New Year dinner?  I went against all travel rules and decided to go.
     His grandfather's house was a short walk from my hotel.  Amist the chaos of fireworks and people paying hommage to their ancestor's spirits (they build little fires on the sidewalks, remembering their ancestor's, in hopes that they will bring them luck in this new year), we walked and talked about traditions and customs.  I also learned, that his family members did not speak any English and that I would be the first foreigner in their house.  I later discovered that I was also the first foreigner the family had ever met.  Now, you can imagine the pressure that I felt. 
     All of the family comes together on New Year's Eve.  Michael's grandfather, mother, father, cousins (asian families call their cousins, brother and sister), aunts, and uncles.  I was welcomed into their home and felt like a queen.  They watched my every move and wouldn't stop feeding me!  The house (apartment) was very tiny, with only three rooms: kitchen and two bedrooms.   The table was set up in a bedroom and the tv was on.  The tradition in their family is to watch a comedy/singing show on tv.  Now for the food.

     Keep in mind that I was a guest, with a group of strangers, that could not speak English.  I had to try everything.  They watched my reactions and motioned if it was good.  So here is what I ate:  pigs ears, lotus root, vegetable dumplings, lamb dumplings, roasted peanuts, noodles, beef, and mandarin oranges.  It all tasted very good.  The pigs ear's were a little chewy and cold.  I also tried pig fat (I think...Michael did not know the word)....I practically gagged.  Next came the fireworks.

     They insisted that I try and pushed me out the door.  I was very nervous.  I lit, threw, and waited for three loud bangs.  Thank goodness there was not anyone below, because we threw it right over the balcony of the apartment.  I also lit the largest sparkler I have ever seen. 

I set off a fire cracker and ran for my life!

     After fireworks, we went back into the house and watched tv with the family.  I was served tea and posed for many photos with the family (I felt like part of the family).  I left at about 9:00.  The family said that they will count down to midnight and turn every light on in this house. 

     It sounded like I was in the middle of a battlefield at midnight.  The sky lit up and it did not stop the entire night.  Word of advice, if you travel to China during Lunar New Year, do not plan on getting any sleep!
Xian Nian Kuai Le (Happy New Year)

The house door